AG-R5100D Super FTA receiver
AG-R5200D Super FTA receiver
SR-X4000D Super FTA receiver
SR-X4200D Super FTA receiver
SR-X10D Super FTA receiver
SR-X20D Super FTA receiver
SR-X30D Super FTA receiver
SR-X22CU Super 1 Smartcard receiver
SR-X5300CU Super 1 Smartcard receiver
SR-X6300CU Super 1 Smartcard receiver
==========================
Star Track :
ST-15X Super FTA receiver
==========================
Condor :
5500 CX Super CA receiver
=========================
Echolink :
Most Models
=======================
Clarke Tech :
CT 1200 FTA

DO TAKE YOUR TIME - READ THIS FIRST
Download and Extract the software from the zip file or wherever.
Make sure you have the Latest Version of ALIMINUPG4.

====CONNECTING TO YOUR PC AND STB (DEMO)=======
You need a 9 pin 3 wire null modem cable between the STB
and your computer. Best to have 9 pin serial connection on the Computer
side as well. If you are making the cable yourself then ->
Connect 2-3 3-2 5-5. and nothing else.
In other words 3 straight through wires -
then reverse 2 and 3 on one side.
If you absolutely have to use a usb -> 9 pin null modem
BUT make sure you have the software for it and/ or set it up correctly.

WARNING Some USB to 9 pin Null modem cables can be erratic in operation.
Just because they flashed another STB does not mean they will work with
these boxes and clones.
==========SAVE==YOUR==FAVOURITES================== ======
The way to do this is as follows.
Menu -> Channel -> Save Channel list and Settings.
Input Password 0000
Do you want to save current etc. Select YES Come out of
menu.
========NOW=TURN=OFF=YOUR=STB(DEMO)=========
Ensure the STB (Receiver is turned OFF) with the switch at the back.
It should not be done by the Remore.
Wait about Ten seconds. The Red Power Light MUST remain off.
Open the ALIMINUPG programme select the most up to date
sw.v1.3.7.????????.bin file.
Make sure you are using the correct software for the ALi Chip that is in your STB (DEMO).

Select the Com port (The one connected to the Cable on the computer).
Then press Next on the software running BEFORE you
Quickly turn the STB ON using the switch at the Back.
This will start the process.
Don’t touch anything till it is finished !
Once the transfer is done turn the receiver off for 5-10 seconds
and then turn it back on again.
ONCE IT STARTS UP (be PATIENT)
From the IRD Select Menu -> Tools -> Factory Default.
The code to enter here is 0000
After the factory reset you then need to rescan the channels for
the satellite(s) selected.
============TURNING CAS ON==================
From the IRD Select Menu and key in 2020 and set CAS DECODING to on.
HIT THE MENU KEY THEN 2 -> 0 -> 2 -> 0
QUITE SLOWLY AND DELIBERATELY.
If you do it quickly it will not work.
Menu 2020 toggles the CAS on and Off.
Become comfortable doing this - its a bit finnicky.
If you cannot do this then you are stuck with FTA !!!!
Finally Restore FAVOURITES if you saved them!
Menu -> Channel -> arrow -> Restore Channel list and Settings.
Input Password 0000
“The operation will restore the last backup etc. Select YES .
This RESTORES YOUR PREVIOUSLY SAVED CHANNEL LIST
after A FLASH UPGRADE.

==================AUTOROLL===================== .
Autoroll Toggle ON / OFF
To toggle Autoroll NAGRA2 / TPS On and Off.
Key in Menu ->2 ->1 -> 2 -> 1

Its good practice to turn the autoroll OFF if your keys
are good. Little point in looking for something that is there. Some
ECM’s will trash valid Nagra keys if you leave the Autoroll running.

Menu -> Tools -> Information.
You should see something like this this.

Bootloader 0.9.9 - 11/10/2007
maincode 1.3.7 - 24/12/2007
CAS_data 1.00 - 01/11/2007
defaultdb 1.0.2 - 28/09/2007
mcu version 1.1.2 - 22/04/2006

===========OTHER USEFUL SOFTWARE =========================
The Original Software for the Max S100 is in on the
FTE Max website.It has no built in keys. If you screw up you can
try flashing with this firmware - it should get you back to where you started.
ALIEDITOR
You can use Alieditor.exe to read and write to the Receiver.
You can introduce new channels, and hand key in favourites
from scratch. It is strange software - treat it with caution.

MaxEditor.exe
It does what some things Ali Editor does not- You can edit the channels
and favourites with software - easily, and push and pull them
from the STB.
The script.ini file was updated on 14/05/2007.

I have found it much easier to edit the favourites on the STB then
save them as described above.
Do the Flash and then restore them.

The software tells you what the error in the text file is - they are usually easy to spot. It isn’t high power software debugging.
If in doubt delete the line. Most of those keys are antiques
and haven’t worked for months or even years!

If you are only adding one or two keys it is probably a lot easier to
do it with the remote - using the method described above.

If all else fails the Master Code for the Max S100 is 3327

WARNING : THERE ARE NO GUARANTEES YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK

1) Why you have to Patch you Humax5400 Receiver?
========================================
When buying a new Humax5400 receiver, you will have the Original Firmware or it could be patched with ToH Firmware which is in most of the time older than the current/latest firmware. New firmwares have a bugs fixes and more features.

2) What you can Upload to your Humax5400
=================================
You can upload to you receiver Firmwares(ToH-HoT), keys(key Bin), Channels Settings(HNF), Utilities(SuDCatone,…), PMCTable, Background Pictures…

3) What you need
==============
Whatever uploading you need:

a) PC or Laptop with COM port
b) Null Modem Cable(RS232).
c) Corresponding Program of the file to be uploaded; HDFSmart for HDF Files, HNFSmart for Channels Settings, DSR9500 or HummyEdit for keys file, PMCTSmart or PMCTool for PMCTable, BackgroundPatcher for Background Pictures.
d) The file to be uploaded

Note that all programs are available under ‘Humax Tools‘ Section.

4) How to Patch your Humax Receiver?
=============================
a) Intall the corresponding program on your PC/Laptop and configure the COM port with Baude Rate 115200.
b) Connect your PC/Laptop to your Humax with the Null Modem Cable.
c) Put your Humax on Standby Mode, except when uploading the key Bin, keep it ON and switch to a FTA/Clear channel.
d) Open the file with the corresponding Program
e) Choose ‘Download to STB’, ‘Send to STB’ or Write…
f) When the message ‘Waiting for Humax Connection’ appears, turn on you STB, then the upload starts.
g) When the upload finishes, push the ‘Standby’ button.
h) You done it.

Corrupted Settings file causes menu and channel selection to hang on Humax Receiver.

To remedy:

1. Obtain a null modem lead. This is a lead with a female serial connector at either end.
2. Download FormulaV3 v.2.8 (This is a program which allows you to upload and download between Humax receiver and PC). It does not change Firmware. (You should find the Files in the Download section.)
3. Unzip this file to a convenient directory on PC.
4. Download settings file and unzip this file to a convenient directory on PC.
5. Turn off PC. (You must not connect to serial port with PC on, as it may damage computer).
6. Connect Humax to PC via serial ports. Connect Humax to power supply but DO NOT SWITCH POWER ON YET.

7. Power up PC.
8. Now install software for FormulaV3. (Double click on setup.exe which will be located where you unzipped FormulaV3 files)
9. Go to Start, Programs, FormulaV3 and double click to open program.
10. After FormulaV3 program opens go to file, open, navigate to where you unzipped settings file and choose file with hnf extension.
11. In window which appears choose your Humax model. Note: if you have patched 5400Z select model 5400 and not 5400Z.
12. Verify that settings are correct and then click OK.
13. Now click on download icon. Dialog box appears which says “Waiting for Humax connection”. Now you may turn power switch at back of Humax on. IMPORTANT Transfer will not work if you turn on power before clicking on download icon. If you do make a mistake just cancel and try again.
If “E iu” appears on display of Humax then try adjusting config to different com port and/or different baud setting. Problem also occurs if you choose 5400Z and have a patched cam.
14. File with settings on should now transfer to Humax. When completed “End” will flash on Humax. Switch off.
Reconnect to TV system and hopefully all should now be well.

Clean/Format your Humax5400 Receiver
=============================

1) Why you have to Clean/Format you Humax54000 Receiver?
=============================================
After patching your Humax5400 receiver many times with different modules (Firmware, Emulation, keys, Channels Settings…) or for some other reasons, some of these modules gets corrupted, this will make your receiver to behave wrong with unexpected results or errors.

2) Preperation before Cleaning/Formatting
===============================
Before doing the Cleaning/Formatting of your Humax5400 Receiver make sure:

a) You have the cleaner file Josje01_Cleaner(Full Clean - Recommended) or Firmware_Reset(Partial Clean)
b) You have the Latest Firmware and the patches if any - HDF File(s).
c) You have the Latest key Bin (mach1, communication, …).
d) You have HDF uploader for Firmware like HumaxUploader1.5(HU1.5), HDFSmart, WDN4OAK+,…
e) You have Channels Settings program like HNFSmart, HumaxBox,…
f) You have key Bin Uploader like DSR9500Emu, Hummy Edit,…
g) You download the Channels Settings from the Net or from your Humax(Your Current Settings) using HNFSmart, HumaxBox…
h) You have the latest Loader H2.08 or L2.08, if not download it from http://www.humaxdigital.com/global/ or here under Firmware Section. Read carefully what you have to download depending of your current version. You can check it from Menu, Installation, Status then STB Status.

3) How to Clean/Format your Humax Receiver?
==================================
a) Upload the latest Loader if needed using WDN4OAK+.
b) Upload the Cleaner File using HU1.5 or HDFSmart…
c) Upload the latest firmware using HU1.5, then the patches if any.
d) Upload the Channels Settings using HNFSmart.
e) Upload the key Bin using DSR9500EMU.
f) Set in the Config Menu, the option ‘CAID Preselect’ option to CARD+EMU.

The first thing to do is make sure your main pole is perfectly vertical. Having done that, proceed as follows:

1. Position your mount to as near as you can by eye and compass, so that it is pointing directly due south at it’s highest point (Usually zero on the scale).
2. There will be two adjustments for the elevation - and it’s crucial you adjust the right ones at the right time. One is on the mount itself, determining the arc angle at which it tracks the heavens, and the other is on the dish. Look up (I think there’s a utility at satcodx.com) the correct elevation for your location, and estimate the position on the adjuster *on the mount* (usually crudely marked and not always accurate).

3. Tune your receiver in to 1 degree west, preferably a weaker signal, and position your dish so as to get the best signal *without* adjusting the mount, but using the adjustment on the dish clamp.
4. Drive your dish, by operating the motor, around to a satellite well to the west, e.g. Hispasat at 30ºW. Adjust the elevation on the dish clamp so as to get the best signal. This may take some time, but DO NOT adjust the mount settings at this point, only the dish.
5. Drive the dish back to due south (1 degree west), and move *the mount itself* up or down back to the strongest signal.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5. The adjustments needed at each point should get smaller, and after 2 or 3 tries you should need no further adjustment.
7. Test you have the arc correct by going to a satellite well round to the East, e.g. Astra2. If the dish elevation is correct, you’ve finished: if it is not, your pole is not vertical, straighten the pole and start again.

If the adjustments are done in the correct order, you can get a dish that tracks just perfect. You should have an unwarped satellite dish, and a straight ground pole, it will make things easier.

1- Start with checking the mounting of the feed horn. All the legs on the tripod should be of the same length. You should measure them, and do any adjustment you can if they are not the same length. Next, you have to check the distance from three different points on the edge of the dish, to the center of the feed horn. Remember, even if the tripod legs have the same length, that does not mean the feed is centered! You might have to “bend” the feed back into center of dish, or adjusting the tripod legs to get the feed centered in the dish.

2- Set the off-set angle on your polar mount (declination). This is an adjustment that tilts the dish *forwards* at an angle of about 4-6 degrees, depending on what latitude you live. You can find the exact angle for your location in charts, but if you set it for about 5 degrees, you’ll be close enough to get going. This adjustment is usually done on one of the mounts connected directly to the dish.

3- You then move the dish to the highest point on your polar mount. You do this by using the actuator. You can do this by visually looking at the dish and the polar mount. You are basically centering the dish on the highest point on the polar mount. Now, you have to set the elevation angle of the dish. I like to use a meter for this, but it is also possible to do it without. The elevation angle is about 40 degrees, depending on your latitude. This is not very critical at this point because you will adjust this angle for best reception later. If you measure the angle on the mount, you might have to add the declination angle to get the true dish pointing angle.

4- You need to find a satellite that is located just south of your location. In most cases, there is a satellite close to the longitude you live. A few degrees off will not make much difference because the dish moves almost flat in the center of arc. Try a Ku band satellite because the accuracy is much higher. However, you might look for a C band satellite when you start. It will be easier to find than a Ku band satellite. Having the dish parked at the highest point of the arc, you have to turn the WHOLE polar mount on the ground pole to you hit the satellite. If your elevation was way off, you might not even get a signal. Adjust the elevation and turn the mount again until you find the satellite located “straight south”.

5- Fine tune the elevation angle. Turn the mount sideways until max signal and then adjust the elevation angle until its maxed. At this point, you have set the off-set angle and the elevation angle for the satellite at the highest point in the arc.

6- Now, you have to get the dish to track on the sides of the arc. This is where most people fail. DO NOT adjust any elevation angles on the mount at this point! Move the dish using the actuator to a satellite on one side of your arc. You should hopefully see the signal from the satellite, if not, pick a satellite closer to the center of the arc. Peak the dish on the satellite using the actuator. Next, you have to push or pull upwards and downwards on the dish. You don’t have to use much force, just a bit to see if the signal gets better or worse when you push/pull on the dish. What you are actually doing is to change the elevation angle a bit. If your dish is pointing at a satellite to the east of center and you have to push up on the dish to get a better signal, then the elevation angle must be adjusted higher. You adjust this by turning the WHOLE mount to the east! You have to use the actuator and move the dish a bit west to peak the signal. You go back and forth until the dish has the correct elevation. Next, you have to check a satellite on the other side of the arc. If you peaked the dish for center, and then for one side, the other side should be very close. This will depend on your ground pole, offset angle/elevation angle and quality of feed/dish.

7- If your dish is not hitting center on the other side, try the same adjustment as above. If the dish needs to be pushed up to get a better signal, then TURN the WHOLE mount in that direction. If the dish needs to be pulled down for a better signal, then turn the mount the opposite direction (towards the higher point on arc).

8- Then, go back and check the other side. Hopefully, you’re not far off. You might have to go from side to side before your dish tracks perfectly.

9- If, and ONLY if you can not get both sides to peak, both sides would be too low or too high. You can then do a small adjustment of the declination (elevation) angle to get the two sides into peak. BUT, only do this if you can confirm that both sides are low or high. If the dish is to high on the sides, but fine in the center, the declination angle is to low. Increase the declination and the elevation angle the same amount. They will cancel each other in the center of arc, but track lower on the sides.

10- You should now have a perfectly peaked dish If you used Ku band satellites for the peaking, it will be as good as it can get. If you used C band satellites, you might want to do the same thing using Ku band satellites.

Installing a motorised satellite system is a challenge but well worth the time spent. For this tutorial I will assume that you are going to wall mount your dish but if not you will be glad to know that most of the information here will still apply to you.

Following the instructions found here you should be able to have a fully working system within 3-4 hours.

You will need:

A satellite receiver
A satellite dish
An LNB
T & K brackets
A pole
A motor
Satellite cable
F plugs etc to make the connections
A satellite Meter
A compass
Ladder
Toolbox

Advice on what to buy

Determine what you want to watch i.e. movies, music, documentaries or whatever you can get as this will determine what satellite receiver you buy. Some receivers can be patched with software to allow you to view pay TV but others may require you to buy a conditional access module which you would have to program in order to view encrypted channels. There are receivers out there that use software to emulate these cam’s but these types of boxes are usually for enthusiasts only and are quite expensive i.e. Dreambox.

Your best bet is to buy something that can be upgraded in the future but also very simple for you to use and for this purpose I would recommend a Technomate satellite receiver. The Technomate 1500 CI+ would be my choice as it represents good value and is so simple a young child could operate it.

Buying a complete kit is a good way of saving money and you know that everything you have purchased was designed to work together.

Satellite dishes can be thought of as very ugly devices but there are ways of disguising your dish. Metal dishes can be sprayed with car paint to help them blend into the surroundings or you may want to by a transparent satellite dish made of polycarbonates which for installations near the seaside are brilliant as they do not rust. New products are always being developed to help people disguise their satellite installations. As with allot of things size really does matter but due to the local council’s dislike of satellite dishes you may not get planning permission for anything to large and your neighbours may complain if the dish obstructs a view from their property so I would recommend not going for a dish any bigger than 90cm though you can always risk a bigger dish and hope that nobody notices. Bigger dishes are essential for picking up weaker signals.

You want to buy a universal LNB and preferably 0.3db. The lower the number the better the picture quality will be. Universal means that the LNB is not fixed to only receiving channels on a certain band.

The motor should support Diseqc 1.2, Goto X and USALS as should your satellite receiver. USALS stand for Universal Satellite Automatic Locator System and use your longitude and latitude in order to track the satellites positioned above the Clarke belt. Having USALS will make things simple so it’s a good thing to have. The Moteck Digipower 2100A would be my choice as it supports all of the above and can turn from 75E to 75W. This motor can be driven using buttons on the base of the unit which helps to set the dish up quickly. It also moves quite quickly so you don’t have to wait so long when moving from one satellite to another.

Starting the install

A dry warm weekend is best for this preferably when your partner is out shopping or something. Start by looking for a neighbours Sky satellite dish and look where the dish arm is pointing. As we are in the North and the satellites circle the equator we know that our dish has to have a clear view of the south. Alternatively use a compass for a more precise reading. Look at your home and decide where the best place to mount the dish will be. Mine is on the side of my house just above the roof so it has an unobstructed view of the sky both East to West.

Once you have decided where the dish will go you need to fix the brackets to the wall. Opinions differ as to how these should be fitted to the wall but I prefer to have the K at the top as I believe it adds greater stability to the dish especially in high winds. The brackets should be approximately 1m apart. You will need strong bolts in order to get a good fixing.

Once complete you will need to attach the pole using U clamps and make sure that the pole is 100% vertical. This is the most important thing you will do so make sure it’s spot on and check with either a spirit level or inclinometer.
A hammer may be needed to tap the brackets and pole in order to get things completely level.

Once complete go and have a cup of tea and read the instruction leaflet that came with your dish. Dish assembly is quite straight forward.

Unpack the motor and flick through the instructions. There should be a chart which tells you what to set the inclination and declination to on your motor and satellite dish based on your latitude. If you don’t know what your latitude and longitude are you can visit www.multimap.com and type in your post code. Your latitude and longitude will be displayed under the picture of the map.

Now would be a good time to wire up the LNB to the motor. Pre made cables for this purpose are available.

Set the motor and dish to the settings given in the motor manual and triple check everything as it’s far easier to work on the dish when it’s on ground level. Now bolt the dish to the motor insuring that the motor is set to 0 degrees and that the dish goes on completely central. Again this is an important step so make sure it’s accurate.

Take the dish up the ladder and bolt it onto the pole making sure the dish will not be obstructed by anything. Using a compass find magnetic south and adjust to find true south. A map that shows the magnetic variation for your location is helpful but not essential as you can turn the dish manually and raise and lower the dish as long as the brackets are loosened.

As a general rule you want to find the closest satellite to your longitude, which will always be the highest satellite in the sky and gives you a better chance of tracking the arc, in my case I chose Thor 1W (If you were in Dublin say, you would be better with Atlantic Bird at 5W).

Plug in your satellite receiver and run a cable outside so that you can plug in your satellite meter. Satellite meters take power from the receiver so the receiver will need to be on and not just in standby. A good meter for this purpose is the Digisat Pro satellite meter. Connect your cable from the receiver and another cable to the motor and gently move the dish side to side and up and down until you get the best possible signal. Once complete you can tighten up the brackets and run a new satellite cable from the motor to the satellite receiver.

Satellite cables come in 3 main colours which are white, brown and black. You should use the colour of cable that is most pleasing to the eye. I find black cable is best suited to brick houses.

You should now weatherproof your hard work with silicone and tape and make sure that the cables are long enough that should the dish move a long way in one direction that the cables will not be stretched or damaged.

You can now set your receiver to USALS and start scanning and storing satellites.
It is advisable to check which satellites you can receive for your size / type of dish on the satellite forums. You may need to tweak your setup a little to get a good signal on all satellites.

That’s all there is to it.
If you get stuck it may be advisable to seek professional help.

We already have a successful and well-know forum where thousands of people interact. We just felt that we need a “blog” to provide more values to our visitors.

What is this blog for?
Since there is a forum, then what is this blog for? Alright, we will be publishing things that would better stay away from the forum because they will get lost between thousands of other threads. This blog will be categorized and it will be very easy for you to find what you are looking for. Also, this blog will have a personal voice which will be engaging for you and for us.

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